How to wipeout

If I fell off a wave while trying to surf it, I was often tumbled around in the force and power of the wave before making it up to the surface for air.

This may sound like an over exaggeration. But it wasn’t.

Everything was new again. Except for all the things that weren’t. My life had been defined by a relationship that was now gone.

Growing up I learned how to surf. There were many aspects of surfing I came to understand and respect. One of the more important ones being how to wipeout and not drown. If I fell off a wave while trying to surf it, I was often tumbled around in the force and power of the wave before making it up to the surface for air. It could be disorienting and dangerous. I learned to cover my face and head with my arm so that if my surfboard smacked into or cut me, it was my arm that took the brunt of it.

I had to learn to understand and respect the aspects of this particular wipeout without drowning.

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